The Iveragh Peninsula

Day 3 - The Ring of Kerry

This is what we came for; to ride the Ring of Kerry.  And in truth, we couldn't have had a better day to ride.  Deep blue skies with puffy cloud for added dramatic effect, and warm sunshine on our backs.

I had mistakenly been calling this area the Kerry Peninsula, but in fact it's the Iveragh Peninsula, completely contained within County Kerry.  It's the largest peninsula in Ireland, with some amazing and unique geology.  The Macgillycuddy's Reeks mountain range lies in the middle of the peninsula, and Carrauntoohil, it's highest mountain, is also the highest mountain in all of Ireland.  So we were expecting something special today. 

We ditched our panniers, and I dialled in the rear suspension for solo riding; just as well, because the road surfaces in Ireland are quite poor, and occasional potholes are a given.  We fuelled the bikes in Killarney, picked up the N72 towards Killorglin, and set out in high spirits.  As we headed west, the view was framed by Macgillycuddy's Reeks on the left, and the Slieve Mish Mountains of the Dingle peninsula ahead and to the right of us.  It took a little while to clear the twin bottlenecks of Killorglin and Glenbeigh, and then the scenery really opened up, as the mountains seemingly fall into the sea, and the road hugs the hillside for dear life.    We stop to drink it all in.

We are only a quarter of the way around the Ring, and we could happily stay here brewing coffee and watching the world drift by for hours.  It is quiet, peaceful and the views are blissful

We push on.  The road turns inland, climbing behind the mountains, and we enter onto an inland plain, where the roads straighten up, and our speed increases significantly.  The road gently skews south as we get towards the peninsula's tip, and we turn away from PortMagee and towards Waterville.  We divert off on to the southern leg of the Ring of Skellig, and potter westwards, passing a small Post Office.  Figuring we might be able to get a drink, and maybe some souvenirs, we dive back.  Unfortunately, this Post Office is just a Post Office, but the delightfully prim and proper Post Mistress, with her high collared blouse, knitted cardigan and tightly curled hair gave us directions to a nearby cafe.

Cafe Cois Trá is conveniently positioned just behind the beach at Ballinskelligs.  The coffee is good, and ridiculously cheap. We bask in the sunshine, and soak up the relaxed vibe of this place.  A half dozen mums and babies are enjoying coffee's and pastries in the sunshine.  We wanted to take a few photos, but it seemed inappropriate to be doing so when they all started breast feeding simultaneously!

We dumped our helmets & jackets with the bikes, and trundled down to the beach, savouring the glorious views across Ballinskelligs Bay.  There is a tiny castle on the beach, which is in a state of splendid disrepair, and proves to be easy to enter and climb the ramparts, from which there are 360 degree views of the beach and the surrounding area. 

Looking to the west, we can see the remains of the Augustinian Priory a half mile distant; we decide to wander down and have a look.  From what we discovered, the Priory was founded by the monks who came to the mainland from Skellig Michael in the 12th Century after numerous attacks by Vikings. The Priory was dedicated to St. Michael, as was the island.  Most of what remains dates back to the 15th century, but there are a lot of graves that date earlier.  In fact the cemetery is still in use to this date. 

On returning, we realised that we had both left our bike keys in our jacket pockets, which were casually slung over the seats of the bikes.  We had been away over an hour.  It just underpinned how safe and relaxed we both felt, that neither of us had been worried about leaving all our kit in the open on the bikes.  I really can't think of many places in the world where I have experienced that.

We return from Ballinskelligs to the Ring of Kerry, and stop in another Souvenir shop at Waterville, looking for stickers for the panniers.  "No we don't have any stickers, just sew-on badges.  We keep being asked for them, but sorry we don't have any."  Duh.....

Climbing the N70 on the other side of Ballinskelligs Bay as we approach the viewpoint at Beenarourke, we catch our first sight of Skellig Michael.  It's at least 25 km from us, but it's shape is unmistakeable.  We are excited to see it, as we plan to visit it tomorrow.

We round the headland, and start the gentle descent towards Caherdaniel.  The view is breathtaking, and we turn round to access a layby on the opposite side of the road.  The land gently falls away to a series of rocky inlets with tiny, isolated beaches of white sand.  Honestly, in this case, the pictures really do say far more than words.

Nicest background for a bike portrait to-date:

We weren't quite quick enough leaving the layby, and got stuck behind a coach for the next 15 km or so.  A word about coaches; when I mentioned the trip to the proprietor of Graham's Motorcycles, he said "You want to go anti-clockwise - all the tourist coaches travel clockwise."  Turns out that must have changed since Graham took a trip around the Ring, because every single coach we saw on this particular Monday was travelling anti-clockwise! 

Have I mentioned that the roads are narrow?  Even on the straights, trucks and coaches overhang the centreline by at least 20-30 cm.  When the opportunity came to safely overtake, we took it and pressed on through Sneem and onto Kenmare, turning inland towards Moll's Gap.  As the old red sandstone at the head of the pass hove into view, our excitement grew once again.  The road climbs to over 250m above sea level, and as you ride through the gap, the view of the the Macgillycuddy's Reeks mountains and the head of the Killarney National Park is gorgeous.  And so is the road dropping from the gap towards Killarney, inviting you to press on and get your knee down... which is never happening with a fat dude on a GS!

We stopped at the Ladies View scenic panorama, which gives a stunning vista of the mountains, lakes and the valley down to Killarney.  We dodged the tourists for 5 minutes, and then it started raining hard, big drops; back on the bikes.

We rode the twisties through the mossy woodland of the National Park, leaving the rain behind us, we passed Muckross and completed our circumnavigation of the Ring of Kerry back in Killarney.  As it was still relatively early in the day, we headed for Ross Castle, to get a close look at Lough Leane.

Now I'm sure the castle (and it's cafe, gift shop and boat hire) are all very lovely, but we pushed on through the woodlands to get to the quiet side of the lough.  And oh my days, it was worth it.  It's hard to get your head around the fact that you are just a mile or so from the town centre in Killarney.  This place is other wordly.  We sat on the rocks on a quiet little beach, lit up a cigar each, and watched the rain pour onto the mountains to the west of us.  For a while, we thought that it was likely the rain would reach us, but it just seemed to sit over the mountains.  I'm pretty sure we were sat there for a good hour and a half. 

Late afternoon, we park up on the High Street and go in search of stickers in the tourist shops.  And despite the fact that there are plenty of souvenir shops, the choice of sticker's available is poor.  But we do find a couple - not Ring of Kerry stickers - but Ireland stickers.  We decide to go back to the campsite and collect a rucksack, and then go in search of fish & chips to eat back at the campsite.

Rucksack duly collected, we fuel up the bikes to save time in the morning, then off to the chippy.  As we approached the shop front, we realise it's actually a fish shop - selling the cold, raw version of what we actually want!  The proprietor tells us to return to the High Street, where there is a Fish & Chip shop.

What he actually meant was a Fish & Chip Restaurant!  They did sell takeaway, but it was obvious that it was an afterthought.  "We'll take your order, you go and sit at the back of the restaurant, on that bench, and we'll let you know when it's ready".  OK.  I ordered cod & chips, to keep things simple.

"And what can I get you sir?" she asks Scott
"Jumbo sausage & chips please." sayeth he.
"Oh... we don't do THAT here!!"  She honestly said it like he'd just suggested going round the back for some nookie!  "Would you like to see the menu?"

We both had the cod, which was actually superb....

Tomorrow's plan; Skellig Michael & The Gap of Dunloe